A standard service typically includes an oil and filter change, inspection of belts, hoses, and the impeller, a check of the fuel and cooling systems, battery and electrical testing, and a general safety once-over. We flag anything that needs attention before it leaves you stranded.

Our scheduled maintenance visits start at $450 within a 25-mile range, covering the first two hours; additional time is $150/hour. Diagnostic and no-start calls start at $450, and emergency calls start at $700. See our Services page for the full breakdown.

An oil change falls under our scheduled maintenance visit, starting at $450 within range, which includes up to two hours of labor — enough for an oil change plus a basic inspection on most boats.

Starting & Charging Problems

The usual suspects are a weak or dead battery, corroded connections, stale or contaminated fuel, a failed starter, or an ignition/safety switch fault. Our no-start diagnostic pinpoints the exact cause so you’re not throwing parts at it.

A rapid click usually means the battery doesn’t have enough power to turn the starter, or there’s a loose or corroded connection — sometimes it’s the starter solenoid. It’s quick for us to test.

Slow cranking points to a weak battery, poor connections, or a starter drawing too much current. We test the whole starting and charging circuit to find the weak link.

The alternator, voltage regulator, battery, or wiring could be at fault. We test charging output under load to tell whether it’s the alternator or the battery that needs replacing.

Electrical & Power

Usually a blown fuse, tripped breaker, corroded ground, or a wiring fault. On boats with separate “house” and engine systems, the problem is often in just one circuit — we trace and repair both AC and DC.

House power runs your accessories separately from the engine, so the issue is often the house battery bank, an inverter/charger, a breaker, or the shore-power connection. We diagnose both 12V DC and 120V AC systems.

Common causes are a blown fuse, a stuck or clogged float switch, corroded wiring, or a failed pump motor. Because the bilge pump is a safety item, we recommend getting it checked promptly.

That’s us. We diagnose and repair both 12V DC and AC house systems on boats, yachts, and vehicles — most issues handled the same day.

Basic checks start with battery voltage, fuses, and ground connections using a multimeter, but marine faults are often hidden corrosion. If you’re not comfortable testing live circuits, it’s safer and faster to have us trace it.

Engine Performance & Noises

Rough running usually traces to fuel (old or contaminated), ignition, clogged injectors or carburetor, or a failing sensor. A diagnostic call sorts out which.

Common causes are a dirty carburetor or injectors, a vacuum leak, bad fuel, or an idle-control/sensor problem. We can usually pin this down in a single visit.

Loss of power can come from fuel delivery, a clogged exhaust, a fouled prop, ignition trouble, or the engine running in “limp” mode. We diagnose it and tell you exactly what’s holding it back.

A brief noise at startup can be normal, but ongoing knocking, ticking, or grinding may mean low oil, a belt or tensioner, or internal wear. Worth checking before it gets worse.

Squealing is most often a worn or loose drive belt, or a failing pulley or bearing. It’s a cheap fix early and an expensive one if ignored.

A seized engine is usually locked from lack of oil, water intrusion, internal rust from sitting, or overheating damage. We can assess whether it can be freed and repaired or needs replacement.

Performance gains come from proper tuning, clean fuel and ignition systems, the right prop, and sometimes engine upgrades. We offer tune-ups and performance upgrades tailored to how you use the boat.

Regular servicing, clean fuel, fresh oil, flushing after saltwater use, and addressing small issues early are the biggest factors. A maintenance schedule is the cheapest insurance there is.

Overheating, Smoke & Leaks

Rough running usually traces to fuel (old or contaminated), ignition, clogged injectors or carburetor, or a failing sensor. A diagnostic call sorts out which.

Common causes are a dirty carburetor or injectors, a vacuum leak, bad fuel, or an idle-control/sensor problem. We can usually pin this down in a single visit.

Loss of power can come from fuel delivery, a clogged exhaust, a fouled prop, ignition trouble, or the engine running in “limp” mode. We diagnose it and tell you exactly what’s holding it back.

A brief noise at startup can be normal, but ongoing knocking, ticking, or grinding may mean low oil, a belt or tensioner, or internal wear. Worth checking before it gets worse.

Squealing is most often a worn or loose drive belt, or a failing pulley or bearing. It’s a cheap fix early and an expensive one if ignored.

A seized engine is usually locked from lack of oil, water intrusion, internal rust from sitting, or overheating damage. We can assess whether it can be freed and repaired or needs replacement.

Performance gains come from proper tuning, clean fuel and ignition systems, the right prop, and sometimes engine upgrades. We offer tune-ups and performance upgrades tailored to how you use the boat.

Regular servicing, clean fuel, fresh oil, flushing after saltwater use, and addressing small issues early are the biggest factors. A maintenance schedule is the cheapest insurance there is.

Overheating, Smoke & Leaks

Smoke color tells the story — white can be coolant or water, blue is burning oil, black is too much fuel. Each points to a different problem, and we’ll identify which.

Most overheating is cooling-system related: a worn raw-water impeller, a blocked intake, a failing water pump, or a thermostat. Running an overheating engine risks serious damage, so it’s worth a prompt look.

This can mean a leaking seal, gasket, or gear case, or oil in the bilge being pumped overboard. Beyond the repair, it’s an environmental issue, so we recommend addressing it quickly.

An overfilled — or rising — oil level can mean fuel or water is getting into the oil, which needs attention. We’ll find the source and correct it.

Gauges & Instruments

Gauge faults are usually the sending units, wiring or ground problems, or the gauge itself. We test sensors and wiring to restore accurate readings.

That usually means one sender or gauge is off, or there’s a grounding issue — not two genuinely different temperatures. We test to find which reading is the real one.

Nav faults can be power or wiring, a blown fuse, a GPS/antenna signal problem, or a connection issue between networked units. We diagnose and repair marine electronics and networks.

Drivetrain & Plumbing

This can be a shift cable or linkage, the lower unit or transmission, or low gear-case fluid. We diagnose the shift system and gear case to find the cause.

Installations, Parts & Upgrades

We source parts through our supplier network as part of any job, and we offer consultation if you want help finding the right parts and harbor resources.

We perform engine removal, replacement, and repower work on-site, and we’ll advise whether a repair or a full replacement makes more sense for your situation.